The Casual Cook – Sweet Potato Bisque
My wife Marci’s grandmother was French Canadian. When Marci was young, her family often had Sunday dinner at her grandmother’s house, and to hear her tell it, it was a grand affair. Fresh vegetables from her grandfather’s garden, a fresh made apple pie, and never just one roast, but always two – a ham and a chicken, roast pork or roast beef, turkey or lamb. But the meal always started with soup.
I’ve had the pleasure of meeting my wife’s French relatives in Montreal who have cooked us some pretty spectacular meals. On one occasion they started the meal with a cream of carrot soup. I recall marveling that my wife’s great aunt was so nonchalant about making it. After a long day of visiting and touring the city with us, while our young kids waited for dinner and wreaked havoc in their neat and proper home, she quietly went about making the soup. It was delicious. I longed to be such a casual cook.
A few nights ago we were out to dinner in a local restaurant, our minds set on a big juicy burger. The waitress mentioned a soup special – sweet potato bisque. Without looking, I knew it piqued Marci’s interest, bringing back memories of the grand meals prepared by her grandmother and great aunties. I was curious if she was going to switch gears and order it, perhaps with a salad on the side.
After considering it for a moment, she did not, sticking with her original plan. But she would have her soup, as the next day we were planning to celebrate her birthday with me cooking a multi-course, small-plates meal, and I now had my final dish to round out the menu. Although I had never made it before, I was going to make sweet potato bisque.
I quickly looked up recipes on the internet, glancing only briefly at the lists of ingredients for ideas. There were all kinds of interesting items that people added to their sweet potato bisque; apples and chipotle peppers, orange juice and honey, curry powder and peanut butter. After a quick look, I closed my computer and got to work, relying on my own instincts to create a recipe.
I must say, I was quite pleased with how it turned out. It was creamy and smooth, with just a touch of sweetness from the sweet potatoes themselves and enough zing to make it exciting. And it was simple and quick; from start to finish it was on the table in about an hour.
Years ago I admired my wife’s great aunt for the simplicity with which she made her cream of carrot soup. I realized that after years in the kitchen, I too can be that casual cook that I always admired.
Sweet Potato Bisque
Serves 4, about 1 hour
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 cup peeled, diced carrot
2 cloves garlic, minced
¾-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and minced
½ tsp. cinnamon
¼ tsp. ground nutmeg
1 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
6 cups peeled, diced sweet potatoes
2 quarts chicken stock
½ cup cream or half and half, plus more for drizzling
Croutons or sweet potato chips for garnish (optional)
1. Heat olive oil on medium in a large, heavy stock pot. Add onions and carrots and cook, stirring frequently until softened, about 10 minutes.
2. Add garlic and ginger and cook, stirring frequently for a minute or two, without letting them brown.
3. Add cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and sweet potatoes, and stir to coat with the spices.
4. Add chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer and allow the soup to cook until the sweet potatoes are very soft and almost falling apart, about 30 minutes.
5. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly if necessary. Puree the soup until very smooth using an immersion blender or counter top blender. Return it to the pot if necessary and stir in cream or half and half.
6. Taste and adjust seasonings.
7. Soup can be made one day ahead of time and reheated. If it is too thick, thin the soup out with a little water, cream, or half and half.
8. Ladle the soup into bowls and drizzle about a tablespoon of cream or half and half on the surface of each bowl. Garnish with croutons or sweet potato chips if desired.
8. Ladle the soup into bowls and drizzle about a tablespoon of cream or half and half on the surface of each bowl. Garnish with croutons or sweet potato chips if desired.
