The Quirky Vegetable – Roasted Beets with Fresh Ricotta and Honey

We all have a relative or a neighbor who is a little, let’s say, different. Not crazy. Not deranged. Just a little quirky in their own way; a little towards the outside of the norm. Crazy hair and odd clothes. Acts in a way that may be considered almost inappropriate or may elicit a nervous sideways glance. In the vegetable world, that’s how I classify beets.

The average person is not enamored by beets; they make some people nervous. Almost everyone avoided them as a kid, and even as an adult, many of us steer clear of them. But they do have a lovable side and a devoted following.

Beets are not an everyday vegetable. We don’t expect them during a week night dinner like we do with carrots or cucumbers or broccoli or tomatoes. Rather, they are a weekend vegetable, not quite for special occasions like an artichoke, but maybe a side dish at Sunday dinner. And when served them, most people may think “hmm…beets,” like they’re not quite sure how to react. They approach them apprehensively, poking hesitantly with their fork before giving them a tentative taste and then nodding their head, thinking “these aren’t bad.” Only a few exclaim their delight and dive right in, making beets that first bite from their plate, the one that shows what they are really most excited about.

I have always had this funny relationship with beets. I wouldn’t touch them until well into my twenties, maybe even my thirties, and even now I only grow a few in the garden and cook them a few times a year. But every time I do, when I slip off their outer skin, staining my fingers red, they are as sweet as can be, tasting earthy and healthy. And they add variety to a meal, both in terms of flavor and color. This diversity is the spice of life. It’s the quirky ones, whether a relative, a neighbor…or beets, that make the world – and our meals – interesting.

Roasted Beets with Fresh Ricotta and Honey

Beets pair beautifully with soft, salty cheeses, like goat cheese, feta, and blue cheese. Many years ago we were served beet rounds topped with pillowy fresh ricotta and honey at a tasting menu at the restaurant Swallow, in Huntington, NY. (It closed this week, which got me thinking about this recipe, although Swallow East in Montauk is still open.) After our meal, I recreated the recipe, and we enjoy it once or twice a year as part of a small plates menu.

Fresh ricotta is supposed to be easy to make at home. I tried it once, unsuccessfully, and have yet to try again, although I suppose it is about time I repeat the effort. Since I don’t make it, I buy it at a local pork store – small Italian grocers that sell meats, cheeses, prepared foods, and other Italian provisions – of which there are many on Long Island. But if fresh ricotta is not available, goat cheese or feta, perhaps whipped with a little olive oil, would make a fine substitution.

1 – 1½ hours, 10 minutes of active time, serves 4 as an appetizer

1 medium to large beet

½ to ¾ cup fresh ricotta cheese

honey to drizzle

flaky sea salt, such as Maldon

freshly ground pepper

1. Preheat oven to 350 ^o
2. Trim any leaves off the beet and reserve for another dish. Rinse the beet with cold water, but do not peel it. Wrap it in aluminum foil and place it in the oven. Roast until a fork pierces the beet easily, about 45 minutes to 1¼ hours.
3. Allow the beet to cool until you can handle it, then peel it. The skin should slip off easily. Allow to cool completely.
4. Using a large chef’s knife, slice the beet into quarter-inch rounds. Place each round on a plate.
5. Top each beet round (using a piping bag if you want to get fancy) with a tablespoon or two of fresh ricotta, depending on the size of the beet. Too much cheese and the flavor of the beet is diluted, not enough and it takes over.
6. Drizzle honey over the cheese, and top with a pinch of sea salt and a few grinds of fresh pepper. Serve immediately.

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