Shelley’s Mom’s Coleslaw

There are coleslaw lovers in this world, and coleslaw haters. It seems there are very few people in between. The lovers don’t understand why, when served as a supplement to your sandwich, you get only a tiny portion. Three or four forkfuls. A tease. It’s not enough. (And it’s not like the cabbage used to make it is so expensive.) The haters don’t understand why it takes up valuable real estate on the plate in the first place; it gets pushed to the side. I am a coleslaw lover. I’m excited when I get a side of coleslaw, and I often judge a restaurant – at least in part – on the quality of their shredded cabbage salad.

My love of coleslaw dates back to my maternal grandmother. She was a wonderful cook. Potato knishes, chopped liver, and a sweet rice strudel were some of her specialties. She made a huge variety of desserts; all types of cakes and cookies, and apple or plum strudel with the thinnest of crusts, dusted in confectioner’s sugar. However, as a child, it was her coleslaw that enamored me. Finely grated, a bit on the sweet side, and slightly tart from a touch of white vinegar. Neither too thick with mayonnaise nor so thin that the juices would run all over your plate. Whenever I visited, she always served coleslaw.

When we would dine at a delicatessen in Philadelphia where I grew up, I almost always ordered a corned beef special – a pile of thin sliced corned beef (cold, not hot) on rye, topped with coleslaw and Russian dressing. I’m sure I ordered it because of the coleslaw.

In Huntington on Long Island, where I live, our local diner slaps a dish of coleslaw (along with a pickle) on the table in front of you as soon as you sit down. A tasty start to a meal that keeps you calm while you wait for others to decide what to order. And best of all, you can always ask for more.

It amazes me that such a simple side dish varies so widely. Finely shredded, grated, or chopped, texture makes a difference. Sweet with added sugar, tart with extra vinegar, a sprinkling of celery seed, flavor is important, but varies. Thick with mayonnaise or with a thinner sauce, the level of creaminess changes the dish.

While my grandmother’s detailed recipe is long gone, I know it was a fairly conventional coleslaw; grated green cabbage, mayonnaise, sugar, salt, and white vinegar. A few years ago I tasted a tangy, if not quite traditional slaw that I loved. The secret, I learned from our friend Shelley’s mother when I got her recipe, is horseradish. It adds the right tanginess, without the sourness of vinegar or overpowering the cabbage salad. It is my go to recipe.

Whether served aside barbeque, with a burger at a picnic, or on top of a corned beef special, there’s always a spot on my plate for coleslaw.

Shelley’s Mom’s Coleslaw

The texture of coleslaw will vary depending on the preparation of the cabbage. If grated in a food processor or using a box grater, it will be very fine. However, I prefer my coleslaw finely shredded using a sharp knife. But the texture is up to you.

Cabbages differ in size, so when you prepare this slaw, make sure to taste it and adjust as needed. It may need more mayonnaise or yogurt to make it creamier, or more sugar, salt, mustard, or horseradish to vary the taste. I do not always use nonfat yogurt or lite mayonnaise. Rather I use what I have on hand.

15 minutes, serves 6 – 8

1 small head green cabbage

1 large carrot

¼ cup nonfat yogurt

½ cup lite mayonnaise

2 Tbsp. horseradish

1 tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

2 tsp. sugar

1. Cut the cabbage into wedges, removing the core, and prepare to desired texture. If grating, use a food processor or the large holes of a box grater. If shredding, lay a flat edge on a cutting board and carefully cut the cabbage into fine strips using a large knife. Cut strips shorter if desired. Place cabbage in a large bowl.
2. Peel carrot and grate in a food processor or on the large holes of a box grater. Add to the cabbage and mix together.
3. Combine yogurt, mayonnaise, horseradish, salt, mustard, and sugar in a small bowl.
4. Add the yogurt-mayonnaise mixture to the cabbage and stir to combine. Refrigerate for at least an hour to allow the flavors to meld.

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