Chicken Tacos Revisited
I don’t like change. When I find something I like, I stick with it. I’ve worn the same kind of shoes to work for over 20 years. As long as my clothes are clean and still fit me, and aren’t too worn, no matter the style, there’s no need for new ones. If I find a dish at a restaurant I like, more often than not that’s what I’ll order at every visit, without further exploring the menu.
Several years ago I developed a recipe for Chicken Tacos for my son. It’s a great, simple dish. The tacos are delicious and satisfying, the chicken filling is flavorful and crispy, and my son loves it. I see no reason for change. My wife, however, has never loved my chicken tacos. She thinks I overcook the chicken to the point where crispy becomes “kibbley” and therefore I always pull hers from the pan before it gets too well-done.
There’s also another issue, albeit minor, with the original recipe. Because I start by simmering chicken thighs, aromatics, and spices in water before shredding them and searing it in a hot pan, I end up with about a quart of broth. While I advocate saving the broth – it’s pretty flavorful – as the base for a Mexican-inspired soup, more often than not, it sits in the back of the refrigerator ripening to a point beyond use. I almost always throw it away, and getting rid of a quart of chicken broth poses a disposal problem. It can’t go down the sink lest it contribute to pipe clogage, and a jug of liquid in the trash isn’t ideal. I wanted the same flavorful chicken tacos, minus the broth.
The other day, I craved chicken tacos, as flavorful as always, not overcooked for my wife and without the waste management issues. Despite my inherent nature, I had to revisit my recipe and figure out a new way.
I chopped onion and garlic and sautéed them until soft in a little oil. I added bite-size pieces of boneless, skinless chicken thighs along with all of the spices from my original recipe. After letting the flavors meld, I added a bit of water, and let it simmer away. Over time, as the water boiled away, the only liquid remaining would be the oil which would sear the chicken as it had in my earlier iteration. I hoped it would work, tasting just like before, with no broth to dispose of.
As the chicken simmered, I realized I had to remove some early to make my wife happy, and I thought this would be a good time for a little experiment. I pulled some chicken before all of the water had evaporated; it was covered in what I can only describe as a thick gravy. I scooped out a second batch after all the water had evaporated, but before it was fully seared. And finally, I kept the heat on high, cooking the remainder to well-done, as I had always done in the past.
Taste tests revealed surprising differences. The fully seared batch was good as always, the crisp edges giving it character and bite. I loved it and was happy I modified the recipe so I no longer had to deal with the broth. But the least cooked – the one with the “gravy” – was even better. It was considerably more flavorful, and the meat was tender and delicious. I was surprised and delighted. A newly revised recipe, and one I liked even more than the original. I can’t wait to hear what my son thinks.
While I don’t think I will ever court change in my life, I do recognize that sometimes change is a good thing when thrust upon me. These chicken tacos revisited are all the proof I need.
Chicken Tacos
45 minutes, serves 4
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 medium onion, finely diced
1 large clove garlic, finely minced
2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into small, bite-size pieces
2 bay leaves
1 Tbsp. ground cumin
1 Tbsp. ancho chili powder
¼ to ½ tsp. cayenne pepper (or more if you like it spicy)
½ tsp. freshly ground pepper
½ tsp. kosher salt
- Heat the vegetable oil on medium in a heavy skillet large enough to comfortably hold all the chicken. Add the diced onion and sauté until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute, making sure it doesn’t brown.
- Raise the heat to high, add the chicken, and stir to coat in the oil. Allow it to cook for a few minutes.
- Add the spices and salt, stir to combine with the chicken. Allowing it to cook for a few more minutes will allow the spices to fully bloom.
- Add ½ cup warm water and stir in. Allow it to bubble and boil, stirring occasionally, turning the heat to medium if it is cooking too quickly.
- Over the next 10 to 15 minutes, the water will boil off. Cook until there is a thick gravy coating the pieces of chicken. Taste and correct seasonings if necessary.
- Serve the chicken hot with tortillas and other accompaniments. (See my recipe for Grilled Skirt Steak Tacos for suggestions, as well as my recipes for pico de gallo, salsa verde, and chipotle salsa.)
