When Our Meals Match the Weather – Chicken with Mushrooms and Shallots

It’s early April and the weather is conflicted. Some days give a hint of what’s to come; warm and sunny, with birds squawking to attract mates and protect their territories. Other days are cold and dreary. Not snow-filled, but rainy and gray, and chilly to the bone.

The garden knows the situation. The alliums – garlic, scallions, and chives – are well on their way, as the first asparagus tips barely peak through the slowly warming soil. A handful of early spring seeds have been sown, but have only just sprouted, nowhere near ready for harvest. Picking summer crops is a distant thought, although some of the seeds have been planted in pots in the basement, waiting until it warms up to be transplanted outside and then for July and August to be eaten.

On the days when the weather is cheerful, I crave early spring vegetables: pea pods, asparagus, arugula, lettuce, and radishes. But they are not yet here; it will be a few more weeks before even the earliest harvest. On the days that remind me that the winter doldrums have not entirely passed I still crave cozy and comforting stews or at least an entrée with a substantial warming sauce.

On a recent cold day, I wanted just such a soothing meal. There were chicken thighs at the ready, a blank canvas on which to build flavors. Mushrooms in a white wine and cream sauce would perfectly fit the bill, as long as I didn’t drown the chicken, making the crisp skin soggy. Big chunks of sautéed shallots would add a sweetness to complement the richness of the rest of the dish. Prepared in a skillet on the stove, it turned into a quick, satiating dinner that beautifully paired with the feel of the day.

There is something satisfying when our meals match the weather. In this time of seasonal transition, I am curious to see how my food reflects the polarizing conditions outside. I will continue to enjoy the last of the hearty winterish entrées, but I will be sure to serve them with inviting spring sides to emphasize the shift between the seasons.

Chicken with Mushrooms and Shallots

The crisp skin on this chicken pairs beautifully with the soft mushrooms and shallots. To achieve perfect crispness, fat needs to be rendered slowly from skin on chicken thighs. Start them in a cold skillet and do not touch them – as tempting as it may be – until the skin is golden underneath, and the thighs are almost cooked through. For this recipe, I prefer boneless thighs, which are easier to eat than bone in. However, if you don’t feel like removing the bones yourself (I’ve never seen skin on, boneless thighs in the supermarket), they are hardly an obstacle to a tasty dinner. And when you serve, be sure to nestle the chicken within the saucy mushrooms and shallots skin side up, without covering it, to ensure that the skin is as crackling and crunchy as can be.

Serves 4, 30 minutes

4 skin on, boneless chicken thighs (from about 2 lbs. bone in)

1 lb. mixed mushrooms, sliced or roughly torn

6 large shallots, peeled and cut lengthwise into large pieces

4 sprigs fresh thyme

½ tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. fresh ground black pepper

½ cup dry white wine

½ cup light cream or half and half

1. Place chicken thighs skin side down in a single layer in a heavy skillet large enough to hold them with plenty of room. Turn the heat to medium and let the thighs cook and fat render. Do not touch, flip, or move them until the skin is golden and crispy, the thighs are about three quarters cooked through, and they release easily from the skillet, about 15 minutes. Rotate the pan as needed for even heating and lower the heat if they start to burn. When it is time, flip the chicken and cook until done (internal temperature of 165 ^oF), another few minutes. Remove chicken from the skillet, leaving the fat behind, and place on a large plate, skin side up.
2. Place pan with chicken fat over medium heat and add mushrooms, shallots, and thyme. Sauté, stirring frequently, until mushrooms have released their liquid and it has mostly evaporated, and they are just starting to brown. Add salt and pepper.
3. Turn heat to low and stir in white wine. Scrape up any tasty brown bits on the bottom of the pan. Mix in cream or half and half and allow to heat up. Nestle chicken skin side up among mushrooms, shallots, and sauce in skillet or in a large dish and serve hot.

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