The Philosophy of Leftovers – Beef Barley Soup

Growing up, my family was all about leftovers. As a matter of fact, sometimes it seemed like we didn’t eat the meal fresh, it was just put in the refrigerator with the express purpose of being served as leftovers – for what seemed like two or three weeks on end. There were containers upon containers of leftovers. And since they were stored in reused, opaque plastic yogurt containers, when we opened the refrigerator, we had no idea what was inside of them. No matter what it was – or how old – we served it. My father, the king of leftovers, has a third-world gut; he never gets sick from eating old food because his stomach has been conditioned by eating leftovers for so many years.

My wife Marci, on the other hand, doesn’t know what a leftover is. She grew up in a family in which her parents rarely cooked, and when her mother made a meal, let’s just say three green beans per person does not leftovers make. In her family, anything left in the refrigerator for more than 20 minutes was automatically discarded. Food poisoning was a serious threat. Not a leftover to be found in that house.

Of course I am exaggerating, maybe a little; however, there is definitely a philosophical difference about leftovers between the two sides of our family. Luckily, there is a happy medium between banning leftovers entirely and serving them for eternity.

Some foods are better as leftovers a day or two after they were first made. Soups and stews, for example, benefit considerably from sitting overnight in the refrigerator and then being reheated. The flavors meld and the dish is fuller and richer as a result. Don’t be afraid to eat leftovers within a reasonable amount of time, and if you make soups and stews, be sure to cook them ahead of time so the flavor fully develops. That way they will be some of the best leftovers you’ve ever had.

Beef Barley Soup

This recipe is modified from Ina Garten’s recipe for Rich Beef Barley Soup. It is perfect for a chilly fall day or cold winter night. The soup is straightforward and easy to make, it freezes well, and of course is perfect as leftovers.

Serves 8, about 3 hours

2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided

2 lbs. beef oxtails

2 lbs. chuck roast, fat removed if necessary and cut into bite-size pieces

½ tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. fresh ground pepper, divided

2½ cups chopped leeks, white and light green parts (about 3 medium leeks)

2½ cups diced carrots (about 5 large carrots)

1¼ cups chopped onion (about 1 large or 2 small onions)

1¼ cups diced celery (about 3 stalks)

3 cloves garlic, minced

3 sprigs fresh thyme leaves

4 bay leaves

12 cups beef broth, homemade or canned (or 12 cups water with 4½ Tbsp. Better Than Bullion Beef Base)

1¼ cups pearled barley

1. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil on medium-high in a large, heavy stockpot. Add the oxtails and sear on one side for about 7 minutes until browned. Flip them and sear the other side until browned, perhaps an additional 7 minutes. Remove the oxtails with a slotted spoon and reserve.
2. Heat an additional tablespoon olive oil in the same pot on medium-high. Add the bite-size pieces of chuck roast and sear, stirring occasionally, until browned all over, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and ½ teaspoon pepper and remove the seared meat with a slotted spoon and reserve.
3. Lower the heat to medium and add the leeks, carrots, onion, celery, and garlic to the oil remaining in the pot. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables start to brown, about 10 to 15 minutes.
4. Tie the thyme sprigs together with kitchen string, and add to the pot along with the bay leaves. Return the meat to the pot, along with the broth and an additional ½ teaspoon pepper.
5. Raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Lower heat, cover, and simmer for 1 hour.
6. While the soup is cooking, bring 5 cups of water to a boil in a 3 quart saucepan and add the barley. Simmer uncovered for 30 minutes, drain, and set aside.
7. After the soup has cooked for an hour, add the barley and cook for another 15 or 20 minutes, until the barley is tender.
8. Remove the soup from the heat and allow it to cool. When cool, place the entire pot in the refrigerator overnight.
9. The next day, remove the soup from the refrigerator and carefully skim and discard the layer of fat that has risen to the top of the soup. Remove the bay leaves and bundle of thyme sprigs. Discard. Remove the oxtails. Pick the tender pieces of meat from the bones, and return them to the soup. Discard the bones.
10. Re-heat the soup for serving. Taste and add more salt or pepper if needed.

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