Crispy Bits – Fried Tofu with Spicy-Sweet Dipping Sauce

Of all of the characteristics that make a morsel of food desirable, crispy bits reign supreme. I love the texture and flavor they bring to my dishes. Diners search it out in all kinds of foods, from the curliest, folded over potato chip in the bag to burnt ends on barbeque brisket; from smashed potatoes and French fries to croutons on an otherwise drab salad; from seared bits of meat on a kebab to vegetables roasted in a scorching hot oven; from the humble breaded chicken cutlet to the crust on fresh baked bread. In Persian households, tahdig – the crackling layer of rice on the bottom of the pot – is so coveted that there’s competition for it and it’s often reserved for guests.

Crispy bits are so important to me that when I created this blog, I wanted it in the title, rather than Max’s Kitchen and Garden, but the name was already taken. My wife, who graciously edits my posts each week, is constantly highlighting the term, arguing that I refer to it too often. I almost always keep it in my posts.

Food scientists recognize that crispy bits are an essential part of food because of texture, flavor, aroma, and appearance. We all know they bring a satisfying crunch to every bite. Because of chemical changes during the Maillard reaction, which occurs when they are formed, crispy bits are also full of flavor and delicious smells, and give seared meats, as well as baked breads and cookies an enticing appearance when foods are browned. The Maillard reaction occurs when sugars and amino acids react at high temperatures and the result is thousands of new flavor combinations, each slightly different depending on the sugars and amino acids the food contains.

The Maillard reaction will not occur, and therefore you can’t get crispy bits, without high heat and a dry surface; boiling or steaming won’t work. Food must be fried, grilled, or roasted. It’s why chefs allow steak to air dry (or they blot it dry with paper towels) before placing it on the grill to get a beautiful crust. Vegetables cannot be wet when roasting in order for them to brown properly on a blazing hot sheet pan. And mushrooms have to be cooked long enough in a skillet so they release their liquid, which evaporates, in order for them to sear.

Even if you don’t want a dish to be overly crispy, the Maillard reaction is important for flavor. For example, when I make chopped liver, I almost char some of the meat. The texture may be lost when the liver is pulsed in a food processor, but the flavor permeates the spreadable puree. When searing something on the stovetop and stuck-on browned bits remain, the pan or skillet should be deglazed with liquid (stock, wine, water) to make a savory sauce. Those crispy bits at the bottom of the pan should never be wasted, even if they will no longer be crispy. This is why gravy, made with little pieces stuck to the bottom of the roasting pan, is so good.

When you search for the cookie with the brownest edges, reach for the crusty end of a loaf of bread, pick the crunchiest French fry on the plate, or save the well-done tips of a chicken cutlet for the last bite, you’re after the best part of the dish, the crispy bits.

Fried Tofu with Spicy-Sweet Dipping Sauce

Tofu is not known for its crispiness; it’s practically tasteless and lots of people don’t like it because of its soft texture. So how do you turn it into crispy bits? Frying is key, but even then it might not get crunchy on the outside. Luckily there are two other simple tricks to help. The first is pressing the tofu before cutting it to remove as much liquid as possible and the second is dredging it in cornstarch, which absorbs the external liquid, leaving a coating to fry. With a tasty, spicy-sweet dipping sauce, and its wonderfully crisp exterior, this dish will turn those who hate tofu into fans.

1¼ hours (45 minutes unattended), serves 4 as an appetizer

For the Tofu

1-14 oz. block extra firm tofu

¼ cup cornstarch

Vegetable oil for frying

For the Dipping Sauce

¼ cup brown sugar or granulated sugar

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped, divided

½ Tbsp. fish sauce (or use soy sauce to make it vegan)

½ Tbsp. fresh red chili pepper (Thai birds eye, jalapeño, serrano, or Fresno), minced

1 Tbsp. lime juice

1 Tbsp. white vinegar

¼ tsp. salt

1. Remove the tofu from its packaging and liquid and place it flat on a plate to collect the liquid as it’s pressed. Cover with another plate, and place a heavy cookbook on top. Allow to sit for at least one hour to press out the liquid.
2. While the tofu is being pressed, prepare the dipping sauce. Bring the sugar and ¼ cup water to a boil in a small saucepan and reduce the heat to low. Allow the mixture to cook until it has thickened a bit, about 5 minutes. Watch it carefully to make sure the water does not boil away. Remove from the heat and add half of the minced garlic. Stir, set aside, and allow to cool. Once cool, add the remaining dipping sauce ingredients and stir to combine. Set aside until tofu is ready.
3. After it is pressed, use a paper towel to remove most of the remaining liquid from the exterior of the block of tofu. Cut into bite-size pieces and place on a clean plate. The edges should be slightly damp so the cornstarch will adhere.
4. Sprinkle the cornstarch over the tofu pieces and toss to coat on all sides.
5. Heat the oven to 200 ^o
6. Heat enough vegetable oil in a pot so that it is deeper than the pieces of tofu are large. When a small amount of cornstarch sprinkled in the oil immediately sizzles, it is ready to go. Fry the tofu, a handful of pieces at a time, stirring frequently, until lightly browned all over, about 4 or 5 minutes.
7. Remove fried tofu with a slotted spoon or spider to drain on a paper towel-lined plate. Place the plate in the oven to keep warm while you fry the remainder of the tofu in batches.
8. When all tofu is fried, serve hot with dipping sauce.

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