A Riff On Philadelphia’s Other Sandwich – Chicken Cutlet, Garlic Kale, and Provolone
I grew up in Philadelphia where the reining sandwiches are cheesesteaks and hoagies. However, there is another Philadelphia sandwich that gets far less attention – roast pork. Comparable in design to a cheesesteak or hoagie, thin sliced pork is stuffed into a long, crusty Italian roll. But that’s where the similarities end. After roasting and slicing, the pork is simmered in its juices, which also get spooned over it to make it moist. Provolone adds a sharp bite and it’s usually topped with garlicky, sautéed greens like spinach or broccoli rabe.
I’ve eaten plenty of cheesesteaks and hoagies in my day; every neighborhood has at least one steak shop where you can get both, and it’s practically Philadelphia sport to argue about which restaurant serves the best. My friends and I would drive to the original Lee’s Hoagie House if we had time to sneak away from school for lunch, and as a hungry teenager, I would sometimes have a cheesesteak as a snack after school, followed at home by a full dinner. Roast pork wasn’t on my radar as a kid. In the 1970s and 1980s, this sandwich was much harder to come by; I assume limited to South Philadelphia’s Italian neighborhoods. As a result, the one and only roast pork sandwich I’ve eaten I had in my early 40s.
A riff on a Philadelphia roast pork sandwich was what popped into my mind the other night when I was making a small plates dinner for my family. There was good bread in the pantry and provolone in the fridge. I had kale ready to be picked in the garden, a perfectly acceptable replacement for sautéed spinach or broccoli rabe. All I needed was a protein. I wasn’t going to roast pork, but a breaded chicken cutlet – much easier and quicker – would make an excellent stand in. Topped with Hungarian hot wax peppers (from Peck’s Pickled Peppers) similar to hot peppers that accompany all three classic Philadelphia sandwiches, these chicken cutlet, garlic kale, and provolone sandwiches were a great finale to a delicious small plates meal.
Chicken Cutlet, Garlic Kale, and Provolone Sandwiches
The chicken cutlet in this sandwich makes for an excellent substitute for the original roast pork. Baked or fried, the cutlet stands up to the bitterness of the garlicy greens, the sharpness of the provolone, and the spiciness of the pickled peppers. Do not limit yourself to kale; using spinach or broccoli rabe is certainly more authentic and will be excellent on this sandwich.
Makes 4 sandwiches, about a half hour
4 breaded chicken cutlets, baked or fried, cut to fit the rolls
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 bunch black kale (also known as lacinato, dinosaur, Tuscan, or Italian kale) or broccoli rabe, or 1 bag fresh spinach (not baby spinach)
½ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
4 long, crusty Italian hoagie rolls
12 slices sharp provolone cheese
pickled hot peppers for serving, optional
- Prepare the breaded chicken cutlets.
- Place oven rack in top third of oven and heat broiler.
- Prepare the greens. If using kale or broccoli rabe, remove thick stems, stalks, or ribs, and slice leaves into half-inch strips. If using spinach, remove thick stems. Wash greens, but do not thoroughly dry. The remaining water will steam the greens. Heat oil on medium-low in a heavy skillet large enough to hold all the greens. Add garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until barely starting to brown. Turn heat to high, add greens, salt, and pepper, and cook until greens are wilted, soft, and cooked through, adding a tablespoon or two more water if needed, about 2 minutes for spinach, up to 10 minutes for kale or broccoli rabe. Drain excess liquid (especially if using spinach) if needed.
- Slice Italian rolls lengthwise, leaving one inch attached so they can be opened like a hinge. Spread each roll open on a sheet pan and lightly toast inside under broiler.
- Assemble sandwiches with slices of chicken cutlets and sautéed greens. Top with provolone and place under the broiler briefly to melt cheese. Top with pickled hot peppers if desired and enjoy hot.
