A Garden Story – Asparagus Bruschetta with Manchego, Tarragon, and Toasted Almonds

Asparagus, a perennial that returns year after year if properly cared for, is one of my most cherished crops. Last year in late spring, when the harvest was over and the plants were maturing, sending their frilly leaves out to collect sunlight to transport food to their roots for the following year’s growth, I was devastated when I walked by and the plants were turning brown and wilting. My asparagus bed was dying.

A quick investigation identified the source – the common asparagus beetle. With its squishy, gray larvae and red, black, and tan patterned adult, the cause was obvious. The beetles and larvae were everywhere, the infestation complete. I would have to take immediate action to save my asparagus.

The first thought, of course, was to use pesticides. I have never applied a pesticide to my garden and it was not a door I wanted to open. But to save the bed, I looked for the safest option. The answer, according to my research, was neem oil, an organic pesticide extracted from the neem tree, native to India. Organic and biodegradable; nontoxic to pets and wildlife; available at most garden centers; my harvest of asparagus spears was finished for the year, so we wouldn’t ingest it. It seemed like the right option. But a week after application, the population of beetles and larvae had not declined, and the devastation was getting worse. Neem oil was not working.

While contemplating the problem and watching the bed from a distance, I noticed birds. I had never seen them do this before. Flying in and out among the stalks and fronds, picking at something. They were eating the beetles and larvae, plucking them off one-by-one! After a few days, the pest population had declined dramatically, and the birds moved on. It was a beautiful example of nature taking care of itself.

But my problem was far from solved. Many beetles and larvae remained, and I was uncertain if the plants could recover. In addition, I noticed eggs; a new population would emerge if I didn’t do something. Since the neem oil was unsuccessful and because less prey was available, the birds were not as attracted as before. I had to turn to mechanical means. I would have to pick off by hand every egg, larva, and beetle that I saw.

For weeks my wife and I picked off beetles, scraped eggs, and squished larvae. In the hot summer sun, we removed every one that we saw – up to a couple hundred on some days – but the next day there were more. It took weeks before the population seriously declined and longer before there were none left.

Then, slowly, the plants recovered. They sent out new wispy leaves to catch sunlight, and finally filled out to their normal density. I could only hope that there was enough time, before the foliage died back in the fall, for them to photosynthesize and send the needed sugars to the roots and rhizomes to support a crop the following year. The only way I would know is to wait.

It is now early April and a week or two ago, there, emerging from the soil, slowly at first and then quicker as the sun warmed the ground, asparagus. Their pointed heads at first, followed by greenish-purple stalks. Growing a little more every day until today, when I was able to harvest the first few spears of the season. Not enough yet as a side dish, but perfect as an appetizer – Asparagus Bruschetta with Manchego, Tarragon, and Toasted Almonds.

While I am overjoyed that our work last summer proved successful, I still hold my breath. It is only the beginning of the eight week season and I worry if my asparagus harvest will yield as much as in past years. And I am concerned that the pest will return to devastate anew. This year, however, I will be watching closely to protect my crop; ready to remove every beetle, larva, and egg, before the population gets large enough to do serious damage.

Asparagus Bruschetta with Manchego, Tarragon, and Toasted Almonds

Practically anything can be put on toasty bread and made into bruschetta; it doesn’t have to be tomato salad. The British even serve soupy beans on toast, although I would hardly call that bruschetta.

To make asparagus bruschetta, I combine bite-size pieces of asparagus with a simple vinaigrette, herbs, and toasted nuts. Served over toasted bread with salty Manchego cheese, they make for a satisfying spring appetizer.

15 minutes, serves 4

8 ¼ to ½-inch slices good Italian bread

3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided

½ tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus 2 Tbsp. for salting water

½ lb. asparagus, cut into ½-inch pieces

2 tsp. fresh tarragon, chopped

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

¼ tsp. fresh ground pepper

¼ cup toasted, slivered almonds, divided

8 thin slices Manchego cheese

1. In a small bowl mix 2 tablespoons olive oil and ¼ teaspoon salt.
2. Turn the oven to broil. Line a sheet pan with aluminum foil. Place the bread slices on the pan and broil, watching carefully, until lightly browned. Remove and flip pieces of bread. Brush or spoon olive oil on each slice and broil, watching closely, until lightly browned. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Alternatively, bread can be grilled.
3. Prepare a bowl of ice water large enough to fit all of the asparagus. Set aside.
4. Bring about 4 inches of water to a boil in an 8-inch saucepan. Add 2 tablespoons salt. Add the asparagus and cook until just tender but still firm, about 2 minutes. Drain and add asparagus to the ice water to stop cooking and maintain bright green color. When cool, completely drain asparagus and pat dry with a paper towel. Put asparagus in a small bowl and set aside.
5. Wisk together chopped tarragon, lemon juice, pepper, and remaining ¼ tsp. kosher salt and 1 tablespoon olive oil.
6. Add half of toasted almonds to the asparagus along with the vinaigrette. Stir to combine. Taste and adjust seasonings. Set aside.
7. Put a slice of Manchego cheese on each toast. Divide the asparagus among the toasts and top with remaining toasted almonds.

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