In Anticipation of Spring – Butternut Squash Soup

When I woke early this morning to take the dog out, it was unmistakably still winter. The air was cold and cloudy. Gloves were needed. The tips of my ears felt chilly. But there was something different in the air this morning. The birds sounded a little louder and more spirited. The grass seemed a slight faction of a shade greener. The feeling – albeit not the temperature – was a little warmer. There was an unmistakable little, itty bitty, teeny tiny, crumb of spring in the air.

Spring is my favorite season of the year. It is the time of rebirth and renewal of the air, in the garden, and for wildlife. Of course closest to me is the garden. I love seeing the asparagus poke their little heads through the soil and the buds on the blueberry bushes begin to swell to almost bursting with anticipation. New chives emerge through the detritus of the past year and sprouts of dill appear from those that fell to seed in the fall.

But a snap back to reality tells me winter continues and that the fruits of the garden are a few months off; I still must rely on winter fare in the kitchen. And so I will make another soup, this time a butternut squash soup with fried sage and crunchy croutons. As it warms me, I find joy both in the soup and the last of winter, and I am satisfied, but I eat it in anticipation of spring.

Butternut Squash Soup

This hearty soup is relatively quick to make, not requiring hours of bubbling, simmering, and reducing on the stove; it can be prepared from start to finish in under an hour. I have most ingredients on hand, which makes it a good choice when I don’t know what else to cook. The squash stores for a couple of months in the pantry, and the pancetta I keep frozen in ¼-inch thick disks for just such recipes. The croutons and fried sage are a nice touch, but are not essential. They could be replaced instead with a snowy shower of freshly grated Parmesan cheese, a dollop of sour cream, a swirl of heavy cream, or a combination of these items. A small bowl makes a hearty opening to a meal of small plates, while a larger bowl, with a thick slice of bread and a salad, is the centerpiece of a filling meal.

Serves 4 – 6 as a small plate or appetizer, 2 – 4 as a main course, about 1 hour

6 Tbsp. olive oil, divided

1 ¼-inch thick round of pancetta (about 1¼ oz.), finely diced

2 medium shallots, finely diced

20 sage leaves, about 8 finely chopped, others reserved for frying

1 large butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into ½-inch cubes

½ tsp. pepper

¼ tsp. allspice

¾ tsp. kosher salt, divided

2 quarts chicken stock

¼ loaf Italian or French bread, cut into ¼-inch cubes

Soup

1. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a 5-quart stock pot on medium low. Add pancetta and shallot and cook, stirring frequently until just starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Add chopped sage and cook for another two minutes. Remove from stock pot with a slotted spoon and reserve in a small bowl.
2. Return stock pot to medium heat and add 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add diced squash and sauté, allowing edges to brown slightly, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes. Squash should be somewhat softened. Return pancetta, shallot and sage mixture to the pot and add pepper, allspice, and ½ teaspoon salt. Stir to mix.
3. Add chicken stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer until squash is very soft and falling apart, about 15 minutes.
4. Blend soup, in batches if necessary, to a smooth puree. Taste and adjust seasonings, adding more salt and pepper if necessary. If you want the soup thicker, continue to simmer slowly on low for up to an additional 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Soup can be made 1 day ahead and reheated.

Fried Sage

While squash is sautéing and soup is simmering add remaining olive oil to an 8-inch skillet and heat on medium until almost smoking. Fry remaining sage leaves for about 1 minute, flipping with tongs about half way through. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate to cool. Reserve oil and skillet to cook croutons.

Croutons

Using the same oil and skillet used to fry the sage, re-heat over low heat. Add cubed bread and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring every few minutes until bread is crisp and lightly browned all over, about ½ hour.

To serve, divide soup among bowls and top with croutons and fried sage.

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