The World’s Most Perfect Sandwich – Banh Mi
Banh mi, a Vietnamese sandwich made on a toasted French baguette, may be the world’s most perfect sandwich. There are a riot of flavors and textures in every bite that balance each other perfectly. It is sweet and crispy from the daikon radish and carrot pickle; spicy from the jalapeño pepper balanced by coolness from cucumber; herbal from the fresh cilantro; salty and chewy from the meat; creamy umami from the mayonnaise spiked lightly with fish sauce; and, crunchy from the toasted bread.
I grew up eating hoagies in Philadelphia, and the similarities between hoagies and banh mi are many. There is nothing fancy about either of them; they are both inexpensive, hand-held food on crusty bread, enjoyed by people on the go. But further than that, they both contain a protein, usually different types of ham and salami or other cured meats on a hoagie, roasted pork, meatballs, or chicken, along with a Vietnamese pâté on a banh mi. They both contain vegetables, which help to make the sandwich complete. While banh mi contain fresh jalapeño peppers for spice, hoagies often have pickled banana or cherry peppers to add zest. And the vinegar in the pickled peppers is similar to that in a banh mi’s pickled daikon radish and carrot. Both sandwiches are also constructed in the same layered way. In fact, when I first had a banh mi in South Philly, it was referred to as a Vietnamese hoagie.
In my garden, I grow all the fresh ingredients needed to make banh mi – carrots, cucumbers, jalapeño, cilantro, and daikon radish. And daikon is one of the few vegetables I grow solely to make one dish. Because banh mi rely on fresh vegetables, it is a sandwich I particularly enjoy in summer, when I can pick these elements from the garden as I’m cooking.
Barbeque Pork Banh Mi
Banh mi can be stuffed with almost any meat. I make mine with Chinese barbeque pork (char siu) that I buy when I visit Chinatown in Flushing, Queens and then freeze. But you could easily find a recipe for Vietnamese grilled pork or chicken, or flavorful meatballs. Rotisserie chicken would make a fine substitute, and I’m sure marinated tofu would be excellent if you want to go the vegetarian route. While banh mi often include a pâté (pâté on a baguette – the French influence on Vietnamese cuisine), I usually opt out.
Baguettes used for banh mi are not your typical French bread. They are lighter and airier, with a thinner crust. They may be hard to find unless you have access to a Vietnamese bakery, but almost any light, crusty bread or roll will do.
I use the daikon and carrot pickle recipe from Julia Moskin of the New York Times. It has the perfect balance of sweet and tart. It needs to sit and marinate for about an hour, so make sure to plan ahead. And for those of you who worry about the overwhelming smell of fish sauce, please don’t. Once it is incorporated into the sandwich, it is not noticeable as fish sauce. However its contribution to the overall sandwich is critical, and you will definitely miss it if you skip it.
1¼ hour, including marinating time, makes 4 sandwiches
4 – 6 to 8 inch long light, crusty baguettes or rolls
½ cup mayonnaise
3 tsp fish sauce
½ lb. char siu (Chinese barbeque pork) or other protein, in bite-size pieces
1 cucumber, thinly sliced
2 jalapeño peppers, thinly sliced in rounds
1 cup cilantro sprigs, large stems removed
- Prepare the daikon and carrot pickle according to directions. Set it aside to marinate.
- Slice the baguette or rolls in half lengthwise and toast lightly.
- In a small bowl, mix the mayonnaise and fish sauce until well combined, then spread each side of the bread with this mixture.
- Drain the liquid from the daikon and carrot pickle.
- Layer the pork, daikon and carrot pickle, cucumber, jalapeño, and cilantro on the bread.
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