Pioneer Stew – Braised Beef Shank

In the 1970s and 80s, the Camp Onas Pioneer Trip lasted four days, consisting of two parts. It started with two days hiking on the Appalachian trail ending at the Delaware Water Gap. With full backpacks carrying sleeping bags, water, food, and other gear, 15 campers aged nine to fourteen hiked up and down mountains with three counselors. Despite the occasional blister, I loved the hiking portion of the trip. There were beautiful views, mountain streams and lakes, and shaded rhododendron forests. Depending on the timing you could pick wild blueberries or raspberries in abundance for breakfast pancakes. Other than the occasional run in with rattlesnakes and perhaps rain, your feet were firmly planted on the ground and there was nothing to worry about.

The canoeing portion of the trip was different. We got on the Delaware River at Water Gap and paddled downstream for two days, maybe a total of 30 miles. Most of the river was calm, although you did have to watch out so you didn’t get your canoe hung up on sleeping rocks, those that were submerged and hard to see. We passed through rapids – the Sparkies, under the bridges at Easton, and others – most of which were fun, but not overly dangerous or challenging. Then, late in the afternoon of the first day of canoeing, we reached Foul Rift.

We always pulled over on shore at the town of Belvidere, New Jersey just north of Foul Rift where there was a large, ominous sign warning canoeists and kayakers of the dangerous rapids a half mile downstream. Campers would rest on the beach contemplating the upcoming danger, while one counselor walked into town to buy ice cream sandwiches, our fateful last “meal” before attempting the rapids.

Foul Rift is one of the most dangerous sets of rapids on the Delaware River. With a drop of 22 feet in a half mile, the river cascades over huge boulders and a series of flat rock ledges. There is fast moving water and serious currents and waves, potentially capsizing and swamping a canoe. We were nervous.

While eating our ice cream, we discussed strategy and safety. The plan was to canoe along the right side of the river – close to the Pennsylvania shore – and then make a sharp zig-zag cut into the middle of the river to find a penetrable channel and avoid the ledges. You couldn’t steer your canoe too far to the left – towards the New Jersey shore – for fear of large rocks and impassable conditions, or perhaps it was too shallow. The water level varied from month to month and year to year depending on rainfall affecting the flow of the river, the speed of the water, the depth of the rocks, and the height of the waves. We never knew how hard the passage through Foul Rift was going to be until we were in the middle of it. I was always terrified.

Most of the time our transit through Foul Rift was exhilarating and stressful, but triumphant. From time to time someone would get hung up on rocks or capsize, and I vaguely remember a canoe getting lost or damaged during one trip that I was not on. But I never remember anyone getting seriously hurt, and I was never in a canoe that had a problem. After a successful passage we all gathered in calm waters downstream to drift and debrief. Relieved kids excitedly reliving the adventure, discussing where things almost went wrong, and figuring out what to do better next time.

Foul rift was the high point of the river portion of the Pioneer Trip. After that, it was easy. Nothing was as nerve-racking or potentially dangerous, and we eventually stopped on a random island in the middle of the river to camp for the night.

Campers hauled the canoes aground so they wouldn’t float away, gathered wood, and set up for sleeping, while one counselor built a fire to keep us warm into the night and around which we would discuss the excitement of the day. A cooler that had been tied in a canoe to prevent loss in case of tipping was brought ashore by another counselor. It contained everything we needed for Pioneer Stew. Cubed beef and vegetables in a tomatoey broth, it was warm, satisfying, and tasty.

As a camper, I never paid attention to how the stew was made, but I knew it would always be delicious. I can only assume they seared the meat then threw in canned tomatoes and fresh vegetables. Some salt and spices probably rounded it out. I can’t imagine the counselors were particularly adept at cooking, so I doubt Pioneer Stew was fancy or even really that good. I’d even wager that at home or a restaurant, many of us would turn our noses up at it and push the plate away. But as it got dark on that island in the middle of the Delaware River after a strenuous and stressful day of canoeing, we ravenously gobbled down every last bit of Pioneer Stew

Braised Beef Shanks

While braised beef shanks never would have made it onto the river as a meal during a canoe trip, they make a hearty and satisfying Saturday night dinner for guests and they’re not all that different than Pioneer Stew. With a pile of mashed potatoes or steamy polenta along with a vegetable, this dinner will warm you up as temperatures cool down in the fall, on a cold winter night, or in early spring when the evenings still have a crisp chill.

Beef shanks come in different sizes, ranging from about 4 to 6 inches in diameter, roughly 0.75 to 1.5 pounds each if cut to 1 or 1.5 inches thick. Smaller ones make the perfect serving size for one person and would look better on the plate for a fancy meal. However, you may only be able to find larger shanks, in which case each piece might be shared by two or more guests. Since this recipe is endlessly flexible, if you purchase more or less meat than called for below, simply modify the quantities of other ingredients as needed. Your meal will not suffer if there is an adjustment in the carrots, for example, or a little less wine.

serves 4, about 3½ hours

4 beef shanks, cut about 1 inch thick, about 1 lb. each

1 tsp. salt, divided, more to taste

1 tsp. pepper, divided, more to taste

2 Tbsp. vegetable, canola, or avocado oil

2 medium onions, diced

3 stalks celery, diced

3 large carrots, cut into ¼ inch rings

4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

3 Tbsp. tomato paste

3 Tbsp. soy sauce

2 cups of dry white wine

2 cups of beef stock

1 tsp. dried thyme

2 bay leaves

1. Preheat oven to 290 ^oF.
2. Sprinkle about half the salt and pepper over both sides of the beef shanks.
3. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven (that has a tight-fitting lid) over a high heat until just barely smoking. Add the beef shanks and allow to sear until browned on one side, about five minutes. Flip and sear on the other side until well-browned. Remove to a large bowl or plate.
4. Add the onions, celery, and carrots and cook until somewhat softened, but not browned, about 10 minutes. Adjust the heat as needed, so the vegetables do not burn.
5. Add the garlic and cook for another couple of minutes.
6. Stir in the tomato paste, allowing it to brown slightly but not burn. Cook for about two minutes scraping up any stuck on fond. Add the soy sauce and continue to stir for another minute.
7. Mix in the white wine and deglaze the pan by scraping any remaining stuck on, browned tomato paste or other bits off the bottom and sides of the pot. Allow this to cook for a few minutes until the liquid is reduced by almost half.
8. Add the beef stock, thyme, bay leaves, remaining salt and pepper, and any juices that have been released by the beef shanks. Stir and bring to a simmer.
9. Nestle in the beef shanks so they are substantially but not totally submerged in the cooking liquid. Return to a boil, cover with the lid, and place in the preheated oven.
10. Cook for about three hours until the beef shanks are meltingly tender.
11. When cool enough, carefully remove the beef shanks to a plate. Strain out any vegetables, reserving any that you might want. Usually only the carrots have held their shape.
12. Let the remaining liquid sit either in the pot or a fat separator to allow the fat to float on top of the precious gravy. Discard the fat, saving the gravy below. Reheat the gravy as necessary to serve over beef shanks and accompanying mashed potatoes or polenta.

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